Three Bistro, as all dining zealots will know, is the latest gift to Brisbane from the Conrad and Pugh collaboration. And like Two Small Rooms and Restaurant Two before it, it’s pitched to prevail on our evolving restaurant scene. Serving serious, unfussy food, Three’s philosophy is simplicity and the theme carries through to the decor. Modest but not mean, with no Florence Broadhurst florals or chichi chandeliers, it’s in contrast to its Emporium counterparts. It lacks the outlook of its more upscale garden-side sibling, Restaurant Two, (unless your idea of a view is Harvey Norman’s delivery dock) but once your food arrives your focus will be firmly inside.

The menu is broadly ‘bistro’ and reads like a carnivore’s dream – the emphasis here is on steak and you won’t get a better one in town. But it’s not all beef, and if it lives in the Pacific or on Old MacDonald’s farm, it’s likely to be listed too. Seafood dominates the entrees, while the charred baby chicken is inspired. The tatin of calf’s liver with caramelised shallots in a rosemary and parmesan crust would convert the staunchest offal-o-phobe, and while the promise of hand-cut chips can mean a lot of different things, Three’s would rival the best pommes Pont Neuf in Paris. Wine-wise, the list is an approachable, pared-down version of Two’s, which means you’ll get sensible wines at an honest price. Service, as you’d expect, is spot on.